The adjustments are the same on Current Water ABS Plastic Helmet, Trident or Moment Full Face Helmet from WRSI. A snug fit allows the helmet to work the way it is intended.  Below is a step by step look at all the adjustments within the WRSI helmet.

Step 1 Initial Fit:

Put the helmet on your head without any of the fitting foam inside.  If you feel pressure points on your temples or sides of your head this helmet shell size maybe too small for you.  If this is the case, your best option is to find a different helmet because the shell is too small.  IF this isn’t a option, you can also remove a small amount of the outfitting foam within the helmet.. this will compromise the comfort & ideal functioning of the helmet.    If the helmet doesn’t give you any pressure points but feels loose.  Move to step 2

STEP 2  Using the Fit Kits to get a Ideal Fit

Tools:

You’ll want the fit kit that came with the helmet. It should contain 2 sizes of foam for the front of the helmet and 4 “L” shaped pieces of foam for the sides of the head.  In addition there may be some extra sticky back velcro and a small piece of foam that wraps around the chin buckle (shown in middle top of picture.  Scissors can be useful for fitting the foam.

Look inside your helmet you should see a large black soft foam liner running over the interior of the helmet.  This should fold away from the helmet around the temples, at the back of the helmet, & also at the forehead.   At these locations there should be some velcro attached to the plastic interior shell of the helmet which is where you will add the additional fit kit foam if you need them.  See pictures below:

FRONT OF HELMET

Using the provided fit kits, you can mix and match the foam to get a snugger fit on the front and sides of the helmet.
Note: these are one-size fit all Kits, you can cut down the fit kits to give a more personalized fit.  Some folks have more oblong narrow

SIDES OF HELMET BELOW:

shaped skulls others have wider flatter ones.  Your goal is to have a even fit, no added pressure points.  You can also double up the foam in areas that need more padding.

Once you have a good fit on all sides of the Helmet. Move on to Step 3

STEP 3  Adjusting the Neck piece so that the helmet doesn’t roll back on your head.

Once again take a look inside your helmet, at the back of the helmet if you pull away the interior soft foam pad you should see, 3 sets of holes.  You should also see a the plastic neck adjustment shown above.  It is possible that the helmet is already set up with the neck piece inserted into one set of holes.  If you need to move it to a different set of holes you will need to apply a fair amount of pull to get the part out.

My suggestion on figuring out the correct possitioning of the Neck piece is to try several settings but only up one of the tabs into the holes on the back of the helmet.  This keeps it in place to test fit, but is much easier to remove if you want to try various settings.   In each setting once you have the one set of tabs in place. Put the helmet on your head.  Hold the chin strap tight or clip it and snug it around your chin.   Now push up on the underside of the visor.  The helmet should stay covering your forehead, and still allow you good vision out the front.   Once you have found the correct hole setting that does this bend the second set of tabs to fit in the holes and this will lock the fitting in place.   Once this is set move to step 4.

Step 4 Adjusting the Chin Strap & Tilt of the helmet.

Take another good look at your helmet, this time focusing on the strapping system that runs around the chin, up in front and in back of the ears and then all around the neck of the helmet.   You can adjust the tilt of the helmet forward or back on the head to either further keep the helmet down over your forehead or to slightly lessen the tilt down on your forehead to give you better vision.   Before you do this look at the clasp that attaches around your chin, you should see a small rubber stopper just up from the male end of the clasp.   Pull this rubber stopper up out of the way of the webbing so that you can cinch the helmet tighter around your neck.  (NOTE: you will need this rubber stopper to keep the helmet tight around your neck once you have made the next set of adjustments, but having it out of the way initially will help you make these adjustments).

To adjust the tilt of your helmet you can either shorten the front strap that runs in front of your ear or lengthen it buy rotating strap around the helmet.   Shortening the strap gives you a forward tilt to the helmet, lengthening it gives you a backward tilt.  In addition, you can pull excess strap out from around the back of the neck to tighten the helmet further onto your head.   Play with this adjustment system till you feel that the helmet once clipped around your chin, stays in place even when you shake your head.  The helmet should allow for good vision, and also not move off your forehead when you apply pressure upward on the visor.   Now replace the Rubber stopper over the nylon strap just past the chin clip. This will lock the helmet chin clip in place preventing it from loosening.

IN THEORY IF.. at all of  the 4 steps above you got a secure fit then your helmet should be locked and ready for play.

IF you are still having trouble feel free to come into the shop and have the staff help you get a good fit.  Some times additional foam may be required to pad out a helmet sufficent

The adjustments are the same on these helmets: Shaggy, TDub, Full Cut, Sensu and Super Scrappy.  A snug fit is extremely important to getting the helmet to work the way it is intended.  Below is a step by step look at all the adjustments within the Shred Ready Helmet.

Step 1 Initial Fit:

Put the helmet on your head without any of the fitting foam inside.  If you feel pressure points on your temples or sides of your head this helmet shell size maybe too small for you.  If this is the case, your best option is to find a different helmet because the shell is too small.  IF this isn’t a option, you can also remove a small amount of the outfitting foam within the helmet.. this will compromise the comfort & ideal functioning of the helmet.    If helmet doesn’t give you any pressure points but feels loose.  Move to step 2

STEP 2   Foaming out the fit of your helmet with the Fit Kit.

Tools:

• You will need Fit Kits provided with helmet should be 3 sizes, Small, Medium, & Large all of which have a front and Back option.
• Sissors are useful
• Velcro tabs that should be included and are most likely inside your helmet.  The River Store has sticky back velcro sold by the inch if you need more.

Look inside your helmet:

If you have a Full Cut, Half Cut & Full Face Helmet, then around the perimeter of the helmet is a soft mesh that can be folded outward.  Beneath this is where you should find the sticky back tabs of velcro, and where you will adhere the fitting foam. See pictures below.

If you have a Shaggy, TDUB, Vixen, Sensu  or Super Scrappy Helmet, then there will not be a mesh layer.  Instead you should have 2 sided velcro tabs that adhere directly to the soft interior of your helmet.  These are what you will attach the fit kits to.

FRONT VIEW OF HELMET

Using the provided fit kits, you can mix and match the foam to get a snugger fit around the perimeter of the helmet.
Note: these are one-size fit all Kits, you can cut down the fit kits to give a more personalized fit.  Some folks have more oblong narrow

BACK VIEW OF HELMET BELOW

shaped skulls others have wider flatter ones.  Your goal is to have a even fit, no added pressure points.  You can also double up the foam in areas that need more padding.

Once you have a good fit on all sides of the perimeter. Move on to Step 3

STEP 3

Adjusting H.O.G (Hand of God) Lock Retention System - this fits behind nape of neck for secure custom fit.

Seen to the left several angles of the retention system.  You want the helmet to snug up to the back of your neck so that it doesn’t slip around or roll up on your head.

To tighten spin the blue dials clock wise.

To loosen there are two black tabs that need to be pressed to release the neck piece.

I recommend you play with the adjustments prior to putting the helmet on your head so you understand how the locking mechanism works.  Once you have a snug fit move on to Step 4.

STEP 4   Tightening the Chin Strap and Adjusting the tilt of your helmet.

Put the helmet on your head, clip the chin strap.

If your helmet rotates back and forth on your head or rolls back you will now need to make some final adjustments.

Remove the rubber stopper from the tightening tab on the chin strap. (Don’t loose this you will need it later… BUT it will be easier to adjust initially with out it)

• Now tighten the chin to where you can breath but it is keeping the helmet firmly down on your head.
• Once it is tight push up on the visor of the helmet from below. If the helmet rotates backwards up onto your forehead you will need to shorten the front angle strap to tilt the helmet down further onto your head.  See picture above, you will need to shorten and move the excess strap through the system till it comes out past the buckle of the chin tightener.   Do this on both sides of the helmet.   You want the tilt enough to keep the helmet down on your head BUT not so much that you can’t see.    If the helmet is too far forward lengthen the front strap and decrease the back strap following the same procedure.    Once a good fit is reached don’t forget to put the Rubber Stopper back in place so that the neck adjustment stays put.

IN THEORY IF.. at all of  the 4 steps above you got a secure fit then your helmet should be locked and ready for play.

IF you are still having trouble feel free to come into the shop and have the staff help you get a good fit.  Some times additional foam may be required to pad out a helmet sufficently.

This guide is a work in progress.  The River Store is preparing a most excellent guide to help YOU fit your existing helmet.   After all, your helmet can only protect your head if it fits properly.

So far the following manufacturers are covered:

• Shred Ready Helmets

• WRSI (Whitewater Research & Safety Institute) Helmets

More helmet guides coming soon.. along with how to videos!

How do I  determine if my helmet needs replacing?  

How do I pick a GOOD SAFE helmet?

How do I get a GOOD fit on my existing helmet?

If you have these questions or others regarding your helmet then you are at the right spot.  The River Store is working on a comprehensive guide for you to get these answers and more specifics to help you select or improve helmet fit & style.

Basic Helmet Anatomy….

We have seen reviews on line and most mention Outer Shell, Inner Lining, & Strapping System… BUT Good safe helmets really should have 3 Layers of protection and a secure strapping system here is how we break it down.

Outer Shell, Role: To displace/share impact along entire shell reducing shock of impact to head in one single location.  Can be Plastic or a Composite Shell, either works.

Inner Shell, Role: To further displace/share impact along entire shell reducing shock of impact to head in one single location. Can be a hard foam (similar in look but not entirely in structure to bike helmet foam) or it can be another plastic shell which is foamed out within.   Mini-cell foam is not a prefered inner shell liner, in that it doesn’t displace/share the impact through out the shell it tends to pinpoint impact.

Inner Fitting/Lining Role: to get the best possible fit on the head, this is the part that you need to customize so that it is tailored to YOU. The better fitting the helmet the better protection you will have.

Strapping System, Role: To keep the helmet in place securly forward enough so that your frontal lobe is never exposed.  Just far enough back so you can see paddling & swimming.  Securely around the neck so that it doesn’t come off under the chin.
Design features to consider:

• Temple coverage  (+ covering vulnerable areas, no -)
• Ear coverage  (+ covering vulnerable areas, - some find it can reduce hearing range)
• Face coverage either a chin guard or cage design (+ protects chin/face/ears from impact on rocks,  - reduces periferal vision, can limit tucking range to cockpit in some individuals, some fear additional hooking/entrapment hazard, minor bother when trying to hydrate with need to remove helmet to get water bottle to mouth)
• Incorporated, Brim or Visor (+ increases vision in bright conditions, protective from sun rays, & can increase air pocket if in aerated entrapment situation. - some concern over increased violence to head motion if in big hydrolic, I personally have not found this to be the case with the helmets I have had.)

Are Whitewater Helmets Good for Multiple Impacts?

Whitewater helmets are designed differently then rock climbing helmets & bike helmets . Impact is different in each of these sports and requirements are different. A bike helmet is designed to take a Big impact but the helmet cracks and is useless immediately after the hit.  Rock climbing helmets are designed to take impact from rocks or debri falling from above your head, they offer little impact protection on the sides of the head.

Whitewater Helmets are designed to take multiple impacts from many angles BUT..  here is the catch… MULTIPLE IMPACTS in different places.  If you take a Huge impact in a bike helmet the helmet breaks forcing you to replace it immediatly.  Whitewater helmets can’t do that, you need to still have a helmet to get down a run even if you take a BIG impact just down stream of put in.  So they are designed to with stand multiple impacts in multiple places.   None of the manufacturers will say that your helmet can take heavy impact over and over again in the same place.   SO… to you this means you need to think about the impacts you have taken and if you feel like the hit to your head was substantial enough replace the helmet.

When Should I Replace My Helmet??

Each of us is different in the type of paddling we do, skill set we have and we all have a different level of klutzyness.  My experience is that I need to replace my helmet every couple years, due to my high klutzyness factor, the amount of sun damage my helmet gets  and yes the impacts my helmet has taken. You may have a different frequency of replacement… But here are the factors to consider:

• IMPACTS Taken… particularly the ones where you hit hard enough to rattle you, and especially the ones that had side effects.. headaches, fussyness, dizzyness, & if you saw stars.  Every impact you take compresses the layers of Foam within the helmet.  This may not be obvious to the naked eye, but the integredy of the tiny pockets of air within the foam is crucial to keeping you safe.
• Sun Damage.. both to the shell, & to the strapping system. Webbing, plastic & composite all are susceptible to sun damage.  Identifying this you can look at the Color &  flex of the helmet.   Faded Color and lots of flex are not good qualities.
• Metal parts & Rust… if you use your helmet in saltwater check the rivets are holding up.
• Fitting material… you can replace this if it is lost… or if the inner softer foam has compressed over time.  You want a secure fit to keep the helmet in place so it can do its job.

Tips for…  Picking a Good Helmet

• Try on the helmets you are interested in.  FIT is the most important part of helmet selection.
• Get a shop employee to help you fit the helmet correctly… this can take 10 min or more so go in with some time on your hands & when your local shop isn’t to busy.   Note: one size fits all outfitting may not work for you, someone experienced with fitting helmets will be able to offer suggestions or alternatives to get the fit right for you.
• Write down the features you want, if you don’t know yet, it helps to sit down and list the type of paddling you intend to do, your skill set & the time of year you paddle.   This way even if your not sure what you need to get, a knowledgeable shop assistant can help you pick the right helmet.  Did you know? Paddling on the South Fork Gorge October-February… the angle of light on the water can be directly in your eyes.  Consider a visor or bill on your helmet if you paddle this time of year.

Need Help Fitting your Helmet? Click Here

• Instructional Savings: Take an RK 1-3 whitewater kayaking class with Current Adventures and save $200 on a new boat. Click here for details

• Buy a new boat at the regular retail price & get a FREE 2-day whitewater class in the RK 1-3 series from Current Adventures.

• Buy a New 2012 or older model boat at regular retail & get 30% back in store credit.  See list of Qualifying Boats Here , Don’t forget Rafts qualify too!

• Pre-order a 2013 kayak on our preseason orders and receive 10% back in store credit.  Hurry the last order is coming up!

• Layaway is an Option! Set up a Payment Plan… this may not get you a discount but may fit your budget much better.

• Join our Rewards Program & get 10% back in store credit on any new boat.

• Join our Demo Program at whatever level $49-$150 & get the money you put into the program back towards a new kayak purchase.

• Don’t see the deal you want, ASK US… it can’t hurt.  We realize there is a lot of competition on-line we’ll do our best to work with your budget, payment needs and see if we can find a deal that will work for you.

• Buy Used… we still have a fairly large selection of used whitewater & used touring boats for sale.

Contact us for further information gigi@theriverstore.com or 530 626 3435

These programs are for any new kayak, whitewater, touring, rafts, catarafts and stand-up Boards.

First: Identify what type of rivers/conditions you most often experience below and then scroll down to the shoes that fit that bill.

• River with lots of  cobble bottom and cobble bars… Think thicker sole with some tread.

or

• River Feature for Park and Play, no travel down river intended… Here is where you can get away with a super small profile bootie it is still still recommended to have a shoe that has some traction as emergency situations can happen anywhere.  If you really only wear neoprene socks you might consider bringing better shoes/sandals in your boat or putting them on shore with your water bottle as a back up plan.

or

• Rivers with lots of Granite, Basalt Boulders, Cliffs, Domes? Extreemly tacky sticky rubber.. The best is Five Ten stealth rubber originally designed for rock climbing, this is a softer rubber so it may not be the best to use your river shoes on the street as well because it will wear down the tread.

or

• Rivers with Mostly Moss or Slime Covered Rocks & Boulders? Consider felt soled booties or shoes, used originally for fishing, there is nothing better for gripping mossy/slimy river bottom & rocks.  Note: felt is terrible grip on dry non mossy rocks, and there is a risk of contaminating rivers with invasive species like the New Zealand mud Snail.  If you do choose felt, research your local rivers for invasive species that might get transfered via your shoe soles & then know how to kill them (freezing your  shoes or completely drying them out are two methods)

Some rivers have all of the above in conditions in which case you may need to define what situations you might need shoes for what and make a compromise. For example The South Fork American has slimy rocks in the water, Cobble bars on the shore & in the Gorge & Chilibar stretch there are big Granite boulders.  I chose a shoe that would work as best possible for most of the conditions, thick sole, five ten rubber in case I need to get out on the boulders mid current… Five Ten rubber is not the best when dealing with slime, but felt soles which are the best for slime arn’t durable enough to run well on cobble and are useless climbing dry granite boulders.  When I paddled on mostly class II & III whitewater in the winter in the Pacific Northwest, all the rocks were mossy, warmth was important, I ended up with Felt soled neoprene booties and was highly satisfied.

A couple other notes:

Are there Long possible Portages or hikes in or Out?? If so think about the thickness of the sole, you will want something with enough durability to do whatever the longest hike out of the run might be.   Ultra small low profile booties may not be the ticket, if you have  several miles of hiking to do.

Are you looking for a Shoe/Bootie that will be your primary insulation on your feet? Neoprene is the best for this… however if you have a Drysuit with Booties & dry socks Neoprene isn’t nessessary.  You can also add Neoprene socks to your feet if the Shoe you need doesn’t have a neoprene lining.

So now you have picked what conditions your shoes should function in here are some recommendations:

River with lots of  Cobble bottom, & Cobble Bars, some boulders that can be attained with medium grip of shoes.

Cherry  Bomb II by Teva:

We brought in a Spider Rubber + JStep outsole that has grip that will boggle your mind, and we streamlined the entire boot so that nothing will stick in the tight spaces of a raft or kayak.

Gorge Boot by Keen:

The Gorge Boot is for anyone looking to keep cold out and comfort in. The 3mm neoprene keeps feet warm in the river (or any soggy place), the two strap system is easy to adjust even with frigid fingers, and the high traction outsole grips the most slippery surfaces. Fairly sticky grip above average, ok on granite.

Portage Shoe by Kokatat:

Neoprene shoe for warmth, with adjustment straps up across the arch  all the way to the ankle. These tightening straps are neatly covered with more neoprene material reducing the risk of catching laces inside of your boat.  Tread thick enough to handle rocks, medium grip.  High ankle keeps out sand.

Paddle Wetshoe by NRS  (NEW 2013)

Neoprene bootie for warmth with a zip up the side, aditional structure and support around the ankle with molded flexible rubber.  Low profile, with medium traction, high ankle to keep out sand.

Sasquatch Shoe by NRS (Discontinued 2012, we still have a few in stock)

Neoprene shoe for warmth, with gasket along top of high ankle design designed to keep most water out and limit sand and gravel  getting into the  shoe.  A adjustment strap across the arch, generous room for the toes and width of the foot.
__________________________________________

River Feature for Park and Play, no travel down river intended…

Freestyle Wetshoe by NRS (NEW 2013)

Low profile bootie with minimal lug on the sole, some traction. Designed for tight fitting playboats that don’t have muc room for feet.  Neoprene for warmth, high ankle keeps out the  sand.

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Rivers with lots of Granite, Basalt Boulders, Cliffs, Domes?

Savant by Five Ten (Discontinued 2012 we still have a few in stock)

Designed as a all terrain shoe with incredible traction on granite and slick rocks. Tennis shoe design gives lots of support for hiking out of any situation.

Water Tennie by Five Ten

Designed as a light weight bootie with incredible traction on rocks neoprene lined for warmth. This is the stickiest rubber that Five Ten makes, fantastic traction, high ankle keeps some sand out.

Brewer by Astral

Light weight paddling shoe, with sticky Five Ten rubber on the sole, this is the stickiest rubber that Five Ten makes for water conditions.  Easy adjustment with laces, Drain holes in the back of the shoe.

_____________________________________________

Rivers with Mostly Moss or Slime Covered Rocks & Boulders?

Felt Soled Kickers by NRS

Neoprene for warmth with, low ankle design and tightening over the arch. Felt sole for great grip on slimy rocks.

Felt Sole Kit : Add a Felt sole to another pair of shoes contact us for details, info@theriverstore.com

Good luck  finding the right shoe, feel free to give us a ring if you have questions, all of our shoes in stock are on sale currently 10%-25% .

-gigi

First decide what uses you want for the shoes…

Water Worthy Only:

These shoes are made up of either softer materials, for warmth or grip,  or they are low profile and offer less support and durability for street wear. Five Ten Rubber is a softer rubber great for gripping rocks but you will wear the rubber down if you use them ever day on the sidewalk.  Neoprene, is great for warming the foot when when, but makes the shoe pretty clammy & hot on the street.      

IF this is what your looking for Click here to Step 2

Street & Water Worthy:

If you want them to be street worthy and water worthy you are probably looking at a shoe that has a thicker sole like the Keen Venice, or Owhyee  or a Chaco Z series.   These are great for open boats, like rafts, or canoes, sit on tops.. but often not as good for enclosed boats due to lack of space, and the possibility of a strap or large foot bed getting caught as you try to exit the boat.

If this is what you are looking for Click Here to the list of Shoes

Here are some of many options out there

Chacos:

Z/1  or ZX/1: Excellent adjustment, easy to put on with a single strap over the front of the foot.  (The ZX series has more skinnier double straps, more adjustment potential, a slightly dressier/fun look) Sole Bed Options: Yampa… lesser lug, better traction on rubber raft surfaces, more contact.  Unaweep: 4.5 mm lug depth, more rugged design for grip on trail & scree. $99.99

Z/2 or ZX/2: The favorite of Guides, this shoe has all the features of the Z/1’s but adds a toe loop that gives your foot better grab to the shoe keeping it in place even in the biggest of rapids.  Sole Bed Options: Yampa… lesser lug, better traction on rubber raft surfaces, more contact.  Unaweep: 4.5 mm lug depth, more rugged design for grip on trail & scree. $99.99

Note: (The ZX series has more skinnier double straps, more adjustment potential, a slightly dressier/fun look).

Keen:

W’s Venice H2: These shoes have exceptional traction on mixed terrain, this performance sandal includes an open strapping system for outstanding ventilation. A streamlined, grippy outsole features multi-directional lugs with razor siping for exceptional traction on rocks, on a raft or on the steet.  Also a extreemly comfortable footbed with a slightly wider footbed then the whisper. $95

W’s Whisper: Fantastic light in weight Whisper sandal from KEEN can manage any water-filled day. The quick draw elastic cord lacing system adjusts to a comfortable and secure fit. The washable polyester upper features the odor-reducing Aegis Microbe Shield®. The foot-cushioning EVA molded footbed provides comfort on the go.  This is a great water shoe for folks with narrow feet, with a very comfortable footbed.$95

M’s Owhee: The Owyhee combines the comfort of a water sandal with the stability of a shoe. Designed for river play, the adjustable secure-fit lace capture system keeps the Owyhee snug on your feet even in swift currents. $95

M’s Hydro Guide: Constructed to meet the demands of high performance water sports The Hydro Guide has an adjustable strap system, sticky siped water traction outsole, and a drainable midsole and outsole so you can concentrate on your sport, not your shoes. $100

Teva:

W’s TerraFi Lite: “Lite” means more agile, fast and flexible – so you’re going to need your sauce just to keep up. Our Terra Fi Lite features all the mondo performance details of its iconic sport-sandal forebears in a leaner, lower profile. Three-point strap adjustment fine tunes the fit and provides optimum support off-road or off-shore. $85

W’s Ewaso: Built for perfomance this shoe has all the features of our sport sandals, but it’s got full toe coverage.  Made with light weight mesh for a breathability & relatively quick dry time.  $85

M’s Tanza: This was built to perform in the water. Featuring our Universal Strapping System with 3 points of adjustment, as well as Shoc Pad™ technology, the Tanza makes the bottom of the river as easy to walk on as a sandy beach. Definetly a more comfy & cush sandal then the Hurricane, thus a hair more expensive $80

M & W’s Hurricane XLT: The Hurricane XLT’s contoured drop-in EVA footbed cradles and supports your feet while its tough hook-and-loop straps give you the perfect fit for all day comfort. Inexpensive shoe at only $60

M & W’s Bomber Flip: With an unbelievably grippy Spider Rubber + JStep sole and a strap that goes over your foot to keep you from sliding around, the Bomber Flip was really built to be a performance flip flop. Super durable Flip Flop!! $80

Note: Many rafting companies require a strap around the back of the shoe, this will stay on in mellower water experiences but may not meet requirements or your full need in whitewater conditions.

To Paddle More & BETTER!!!

Get your destinations squared away… here are some helpful links to getting your permits… Let the Adventure begin…

CALIFORNIA:

Tuolume & Cherry Creek Permit info

IDAHO:

Deadline January 31st

For Selway, Snake (through Hells Canyon), Main Salmon & Middle Fork Salmon Rivers

These are done by a lottery  permit system for rafting during the summer floating season. The permitting process is now done online. In order to apply, go to recreation.gov and type in the name of the river you want to run & follow the directions.  (If you run into problems during the application process, you can call 877-553-6777.)

The results of your application will be e-mailed to you after the drawing, which is scheduled for early February. You can see the results online by checking your profile beginning on Friday, Feb. 4. All of the applicants who are successful are required to confirm their reservations by Tuesday, March 15. If you do apply and don’t score a permit, keep in mind that all of the rivers are open for floating without the need for a special permit during spring, fall and winter.

And also remember that many permit-holders cancel, and their permits are made available on a first-come first-served basis.

OREGON:

Deadline: January 31

ROGUE RIVER River permits for the Rogue River are done by filling out a application and submitting it by Fax, mail or phone to Smullin Visitor Center on the Rogue River.

ROGUE Lottery Application

UTAH

Green River (Desolation Canyon) Lottery System Deadline Jan 31 These are done by a lottery  permit system for rafting during the summer floating season. The permitting process is now done online. In order to apply, go to recreation.gov and type in the name of the river you want to run & follow the directions.  (If you run into problems during the application process, you can call 877-553-6777.)

Lower Green River (Labyrinth canyon) Permit Application

Yampa River (Dinosaur National Monument) Deadline Feb 1  Submit application via Fax, or Mail.  Lottery Application

Grand Canyon Permits

Each year in February a main lottery is held to assign launch dates for river trips occurring the next year. Follow-up lotteries are then held as needed throughout the remainder of the year to reassign cancelled and/or left-over river trips. Info about eligibility

Weighted Lottery Grand Canyon
Don’t see what your looking for… More links to further permit info here

Looking for a Guided Trip Current Adventures has plans for trips to the East Carson, Rogue River, Grand Canyon, & More… Dates coming soon.

Rocky Mt Rafts IN STOCK!!! 30% back when you purchase one at full price put that towards getting paddles, oars, frame… etc…

or rather have the discount…. 15% off the retail price … Your Choice.

12′ Cataraft Tubes: Regular: $999 Store credit of: $300 or choose instead 15% off: $849

14′ Cataraft Tubes: Regular $1165 Store credit of: $350 or Choose instead 15% off: $990.25

14′ self bailing (Blue) Regular: $2289 Store credit of: $$686 or choose instead 15% off: $1940

Tax will be added to all sales in California.

What Makes A Rocky Mountain Raft Great…

Rocky Mountain Rafts are very high quality boats at unbeatable prices!

Some of the outstanding features include:
- ALL welded seams, handles, and D-rings
- NO GLUE with the exception of the top and bottom chafers.
- Commercial grade 44oz/2000-denier PVC; it’s our most durable boat for the most demanding rivers.

Contact us if you have questions, the Rep lives locally in Lotus so if you would like to try out a 13′ or 14′ boat we can arrange that for you.  info@theriverstore.com